There are 3 different types of Hyper Pigmentation
- Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) = brown or black marks caused my melanin. Caused by sun damage and inflammation
- Post Inflammatory Erythema (PIE) = The red marks from acne.
- Melasma = can by triggered by hormones, illness, disease, blue light, fluro lighting heat from chemical sunscreens and the sun
Recommendations:
You must never leave the house without sunscreen and sunglasses. Preferably with a hat on.
You want a physical sunscreen with zinc oxide (minimum of 15%). Chemical Sunscreens can heat up the skin too much, look for a Physical Sunscreen with Zinc or Titanium Dioxide in it.
Melasma happens in stages, here’s a list of the stages and products that helps.
| –BEFORE MELANIN SYNTHESIS— |
|---|
| Regulation of tyrosinase transcription |
| Retinoids |
| Inhibition of tyrosinase maturation |
| N-acetyl glucosamine |
|
|
| —DURING MELANIN SYNTHESIS— |
| Inhibition of tyrosinase activity |
| Hydroquinone |
| Mequinol* |
| Arbutin |
| Kojic acid |
| Azelaic acid |
| Licorice |
| Resveratrol* |
| Inhibition of melanosome maturation |
| Arbutin |
|
|
| —AFTER MELANIN SYNTHESIS— |
| Inhibition of melanosome transfer |
| Hydroquinone* |
| Retinoids |
| Niacinamide |
| Soy |
| Dispersion and removal of melanin |
| Retinoids |
| AHAs |
| Licorice |
|
|
| —ADDITIONAL MECHANISMS— |
| Antioxidant agents |
| Ascorbic acid |
| α-lipoic acid |
| α-tocopherol |
| Anti-inflammatory agents |
| Corticosteroids |
| Retinoids |
| Licorice |
If that’s all super confusing here is a list of The Ordinary (reasonably priced skincare) products that can help treat the phases.
Regulation of tyrosinase transcription Retinol 1% in Squalane,
Inhibition of tyrosinase activity Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% , Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3%,
Inhibition of melanosome maturation Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA
Inhibition of melanosome transfer Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, Retinol 1% in Squalane
Dispersion and removal of melanin Retinol 1% in Squalane, AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution
Antioxidant agents Alpha Lipoic Acid 5%, Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%
Anti-inflammatory agents Retinol 1% in Squalane
Hydroquione is quite controversial, it does work but it does have it’s downsides, I would recommend doing your research before going down this route
