Hyperpigmentation / Pigmentation / Melasma

Hyperpigmentation / Pigmentation / Melasma

There are 3 different types of Hyper Pigmentation
  • Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) = brown or black marks caused my melanin. Caused by sun damage and inflammation
  • Post Inflammatory Erythema (PIE) = The red marks from acne.
  • Melasma = can by triggered by hormones, illness, disease, blue light, fluro lighting heat from chemical sunscreens and the sun
 
Recommendations:
You must never leave the house without sunscreen and sunglasses. Preferably with a hat on.
You want a physical sunscreen with zinc oxide (minimum of 15%). Chemical Sunscreens can heat up the skin too much, look for a Physical Sunscreen with Zinc or Titanium Dioxide in it.
Melasma happens in stages, here’s a list of the stages and products that helps.  
 
–BEFORE MELANIN SYNTHESIS—
Regulation of tyrosinase transcription
Retinoids
Inhibition of tyrosinase maturation
N-acetyl glucosamine
 

 

—DURING MELANIN SYNTHESIS—
Inhibition of tyrosinase activity
Hydroquinone
Mequinol*
Arbutin
Kojic acid
Azelaic acid
Licorice
Resveratrol*
Inhibition of melanosome maturation
Arbutin
 

 

—AFTER MELANIN SYNTHESIS—
Inhibition of melanosome transfer
Hydroquinone*
Retinoids
Niacinamide
Soy
Dispersion and removal of melanin
Retinoids
AHAs
Licorice
 

 

—ADDITIONAL MECHANISMS—
Antioxidant agents
Ascorbic acid
α-lipoic acid
α-tocopherol
Anti-inflammatory agents
Corticosteroids
Retinoids
Licorice

 

 
If that’s all super confusing here is a list of  The Ordinary (reasonably priced skincare) products that can help treat the phases.

 

Regulation of tyrosinase transcription Retinol 1% in Squalane,

Inhibition of tyrosinase activity Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% , Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3%,

Inhibition of melanosome maturation Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA

Inhibition of melanosome transfer Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, Retinol 1% in Squalane

Dispersion and removal of melanin Retinol 1% in Squalane, AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution

Antioxidant agents Alpha Lipoic Acid 5%, Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%

Anti-inflammatory agents Retinol 1% in Squalane

 

Hydroquione is quite controversial, it does work but it does have it’s downsides, I would recommend doing your research before going down this route

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